
INTELLIGENCE
LIBRARY
We publish annual deep dive research reports, white papers and conferences on social, environmental and governance issues surrounding the textiles supply chain. We also partner with suppliers, MSIs and NGOs on industry-leading research.
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2025
A Reference for Water Consumption During Indigo Dyeing
An Indigo Council Study by Transformers Foundation
How much water does Indigo Dyeing really use? The industry frequently communicates about water savings, but there is no shared agreement on baseline numbers – until now. Transformers partnered with 7 leading mills to create the first ever industry reference for water consumption during indigo dyeing.
2024
From Catwalk to Carbon Neutral
Mobilising Funding for a Net Zero Fashion Industry
Catwalk to Carbon Neutral is a white paper detailing the challenges and innovative solutions for financing decarbonization in the fashion industry's supply chain. It highlights the structural inequity where manufacturers, often in the global South, bear the brunt of emissions reduction but lack the necessary funding due to factors like high debt and low profit margins compared to brands and retailers.
2023
Cotton: A Case Study in Misinformation
(Updated for 2023)
This 2023 updated report from Transformers Foundation provides the latest data, updating the initial issue from 2020, on cotton's water, pesticides, and fertilizers. It emphasizes that solving impacts requires understanding local realities, shifting sourcing models, and addressing the underlying challenge of equitable farmer partnerships.
2023
An Apparel Supplier’s Guide (2023)
Key Sustainability Legislations in the EU, US, and UK
This group of documents is intended to enable suppliers in the apparel value chain - and others who are seeking to better understand upcoming legislation - to better understand how impending sustainability-related legislation in the Global North will impact them.
2023
Support for Turkey
Disaster Relief Campaign
On February 6, 2023, a devastating earthquake with a magnitude of 7.8 struck southern and central Turkey, as well as northern and western Syria. The earthquakes resulted in widespread damage and tens of thousands of fatalities, making it the deadliest seismic event in the history of Turkey and Syria.
2022
Fashion's Chemical Certification Complex
Needlessly Complicated, Woefully Ineffective
Fashion has a chemical certification problem. Dozens of private-sector auditors, consultancies, labs, and certifications provide an expensive and inefficient form of surveillance over the supply chain on behalf of brands. This paper calls for collaboration and alignment around a single set of rules.
2022
The High data debate:
Part 1: No room for context, imagination, or co-creation
The consumer-facing product labeling tool known as the Higg Material Sustainability Index (MSI) is under fire for greenwashing. The accusation leveled by the New York Times is that the fabric ranking system (created by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition) favors petroleum-based synthetics over natural fibers.
2020
Ending Unethical Brand and Retailer Behaviour
The Supply Chain Speaks Up
Transformers Foundation was created at the beginning of 2020, a moment when an unprecedented global situation that exposed how deep the cracks in the supply chain go. We have a rare window of opportunity to fix the power differential that allowed brands, retailers, and importers to walk away from their contracts with suppliers without almost any consequence. More than just enforcing contracts, we hope to build ethics and care into an industry that right now seems to have very little of either.
2020
Eight Ethical Principles
For purchasing of jeans & denim
Brands, retailers, and importers often demand strict supplier codes of conduct without following ethical standards themselves. To rebalance power, we created the Eight Ethical Principles for Jeans & Denim Purchasing — a framework for both BRIs and suppliers to adopt, share, and sign as a mutual commitment to fair business practices.
2024
Collective Action Reimagined:
A Call For Fair Process And Supplier Inclusion In Fashion’s Multi-Stakeholder Initiatives
This report examines how fashion’s multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs) often exclude suppliers from decision-making, limiting progress toward sustainability. Drawing on supplier perspectives, it exposes systemic inequities and power imbalances, calling for “fair process”: greater transparency, equitable participation, and bias reduction to build truly inclusive, effective collective action across the industry.
2024
An Apparel Supplier’s Guide (2024)
Key Sustainability Legislations in the EU, US, and UK
This group of documents is intended to enable suppliers in the apparel value chain - and others who are seeking to better understand upcoming legislation - to better understand how impending sustainability-related legislation in the Global North will impact them.
2023
Towards a Collective Approach
Rethinking Fashion's Doomed Climate Strategy
Towards a Collective Approach argues that fashion’s current climate agenda unfairly burdens suppliers with the cost and responsibility of decarbonization. Drawing on supplier perspectives, it exposes how top-down strategies, inequitable financing, and fragmented supply chains undermine progress, and calls for shared responsibility, contextual solutions, and equitable climate action.
2023
Joint Recommendations from an Alliance of Garment Industry Representatives
for the EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive
To advance effective mandatory human rights due diligence at the EU level, we are allying with amfori, Ethical Trading Initiative, Fair Wear Foundation, Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Transformers Foundation, and manufacturer associations from the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative. Coming from a sector classified as high-risk by the OECD, our input is critical in the development of the EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence (EU CSDD) Directive.
2023
Inclusive Standards for Sustainability Standard-Setting
by Kim van der Weerd
Legislation in the Global North is advancing to hold fashion companies accountable, but the new Apparel Supplier’s Guide to Sustainability Legislation reveals that suppliers—who will bear much of the implementation burden—have been largely excluded from shaping these laws, prompting calls for their direct involvement in future policy development.
2022
The High data debate:
Part 2: Re-imagining Consumers as Conversation Changers
True transformation of fashion’s environmental impact won’t come from consumers buying differently, but from producers—supported by fairer financial systems and genuine collaboration—redefining how and where clothes are made, while consumers in the Global North shift from shoppers to informed allies and conversation changers.
2021
Cotton: A Case Study in Misinformation
A Report on Building Critical Data Consumption in Fashion
Fashion has a serious and growing misinformation problem. Inaccurate and outdated figures are widely shared, as is data without any context. By using credible information, and learning to use information more responsibly, we can hopefully begin to move past mistrust towards actual improvements.
2020
Transformers Catalysts
Digital Conference
Transformers Catalysts is an event focused on actively addressing and facilitating change in key areas of the denim supply chain to increase sustainability, where we spotlight the members of the denim supply chain focused on redefining the rules for the future.


















