
2022
Fashion's Chemical Certification Complex
Needlessly Complicated, Woefully Ineffective
Fashion has a chemical certification problem. Dozens of private-sector auditors, consultancies, labs, and certifications provide an expensive and inefficient form of surveillance over the supply chain on behalf of brands.
Many of these organisations offer almost identical services. While brands and retailers use chemical management as a differentiator, a marketing tool, and a way to shirk responsibility, it is the supply chain—from the chemical companies to the denim laundries—that pays for testing, certification, and management of these overlapping safety protocols.
This paper calls for collaboration and alignment around a single set of rules: sound chemical management systems should be a ticket to play, not a market differentiator. “Fashion’s Certification Complex: Needlessly Complicated, Woefully Ineffective” is an investigative report that equips fashion professionals with the actions they can take to reform chemical management in the fashion industry.
OUR CALLS TO ACTION:
BRANDS & RETAILERS:
Ascribe to the ZDHC MRSL and the AFIRM RSL
Develop in-house technical expertise
Treat your suppliers ethically
Lobby government to incorporate standards into law
Provide ingredient lists for consumers
LEGISLATORS:
Fund and empower governing bodies to focus on consumer product chemical safety
Align with other countries to unify chemical guidance
Pass due diligence laws that hold fashion companies liable for worker exposure
CHEMICAL COMPANIES:
Collaborate on a collective position on chemical complexity
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“I don’t see why we shouldn’t have one globally accepted RSL. Can you think of any reason why Diesel jeans should have different requirements, environmentally speaking, than Levi’s jeans, Pepe jeans or Calvin Klein jeans? There is a bad need for alignment.”
– Alberto De Conti, Rudolf
